If you've climbed in the bay area gyms in the past few years, you've probably seen a few of the young climbers grow up and turn into strong climbers. Eric Sanchez has been climbing at the Touchstone for a number of years now and currently works in the gyms. Sanchez, a 19 years old from Livermore California, works full time as a setter at Diablo Rock Gym, studies graphic design, and crushes in the time in between. The modest crusher said, “Setting, working, and school is pretty much all I do. “
Sanchez began climbing nine years ago. “My mom dropped me off at the gym in Livermore to keep me buy.” Sanchez became immersed in the sport, spending three years climbing with Zero Gravity. In 2009 he won adult nationals for speed and has been to a number of world championships for climbing.
Sanchez began working for Touchstone in June, helping out with the initial setting at Fesno’s MetalMark gym. “Setting is really fun,” said Sanchez, “I’ve climbed the other setters routes for years and I finally got to meet them.”
Earlier this year, Sanchez headed to Mickey’s Beach, located just north of San Francisco in Marin. Sanchez dispatched with Dream of White Porsches (5.13b). “I’d been bouldering a lot so it was good to tie into a rope. Id tried it for a few years but it had always shut me down,” Sanchez saif of the climb. “I had been working it awhile with Ben Polanco and Scot Cory. We put our beta together and it kind of clicked.“
Sanchez has also dispatched King Pin, a 5.13b at Jailhouse in Sonora, and Foreignator, an 8a in Ceuse France. Sanchez described the notoriously pocketed area of Ceuse as being specifically difficult for him. Foreignator consists, “primarily of two finger pockets. My fingers aren’t that strong as just two.” Despite his difficulty with pocket climbing, Sanchez made the third ascent of Half Shark Alligator Half Man, one of the hardest climbs at the Sads. “I generally don’t like pocket climbs because my fingers don’t take well to them but it was a really fun climb.”
Today the Facebook profiles of Touchstone and all of the gyms went dark. We are joining the hundreds of other businesses and individuals that are protesting SOPA & PIPA. These laws, if passed, would forever change the internet in this country and the world. In effect these laws would create a firewall around the US similar to the one currently in China. Simply put, we can't allow this to happen.
Please take a minute to tell Congress not to censor the web.
The Studio Climbing gym in San Jose is shaping up to be one of the premier climbing facilities this side of the Mississippi. And while the holds have arrived, the yoga studio smells of rich mahogany and leather bound books, and the walls tower majestically over a floor plan built for plastic pullers.... we are still a little ways from opening.
Rather than cutting the ribbon and unveiling a partial construction site January 28th, (The intended day of the Grand Opening Comp and Touchstone Bouldering Series 7 Competition) we have decided to push it back in an effort to show off a finished product.
So let's all in unison pull out our iphones, flip open our calendars, or grab the sharpie we use to scribble important things on the back of our hands... and make a note:
THE STUDIO COMP HAS BEEN MOVED TO SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 18TH.
Same fun: Free Beer. Free Food. On-sight finals with a cash prize. Music. T-Shirts. Fun. Friends. Community. Oh and oodles of never before climbed boulder problems on brand new terrain. It's gonna be the blast you were expecting, just on a different day.
For those of you who are looking forward to calling The Studio home; we're sorry to have to make you wait a little longer. We will keep you up to date on the play by play as we get closer to opening the gym itself. Depending on construction, we are still hoping to open late January/ Early February. The moment that we're able to do so, you'll be the first to know!
The guys over at Louder Than 11 just made a funny short about the classic things that climbers say all the time. Check it out and see how many of them you've heard in the gym in the last couple of days. TAKE! Shit Climbers Say from Louder Than 11 on Vimeo. Shit Climbers Say from Louder Than 11 on Vimeo.
Earlier this month, four intrepid bay area climbers took the journey to the deep south in search of some of the best sandstone boulders in the United States.
Al Liu, a 32 year old Mountain Hardwear employee from Oakland, and Abel Eisentraut, a 41 year old cabinet maker from Oakland, flew from the bay area to Denver, where they promptly missed their connecting flight.
Phillipp Green, a 27 year old front desk staffer at Fresno’s Metal Mark, competed in the HomeGrown CycloCross race series this year.
The races take place from September to January and consist of numerous laps around a short, a 1.5 – 2 mile course with mixed terrain of wooded trails, grass, steep hills, and pavement. Often, cyclists have to navigate obstacles by dismounting their bikes and jumping over the barrier. Though the courses are short, the race is usually consists of over 20 miles of this type of terrain.
There's days when I sit behind my computer and neurotically check the weather. Yosemite, Castle Rock, Mortar, Smith, Bishop, Mickeys, Pinnacles. Where should I go? Where's the weather going to be best?
Well into his late 80s, life time dirtbag climber, Fred Beckey shows no signs of slowing down his passion for climbing.
Beckey has authored a number of books since the late 1940s, notably the Cadcade Alpine Guide, which is in it’s third edition. In 2003, his 563-page book on the history of the region, Range of Glaciers, was published by the Oregon Historical Society Press.
Huecos Rancheros, a new movie filmed by Owen Bissel and edited by Byron Wolter, is coming out in a month. The 30 minute film features classic problems from Hueco, everything from v0 fun fests to v13 horror shows.
The movie features Mark Heal, Touchstone athlete Ethan Pringle and a number of other climbers.
Pringle and Heal headed out to Hueco for two weeks at the end of January last year. “It's some of the best and most diverse bouldering in the states!” said Pringle about the rock in Texas. “There is a little bit of every style of climbing there- roof, slab, even a few cracks. Every angle of wall, every type of grip. And for the most part the weather is splitter in late fall-early spring. Even though it's a pretty small area, there are so many corridors and boulders and roofs the there's still a load of potential! I know about a few lines that I'd really like to go back and have a crack on.”
On November 12th, the Access Fund hosted a workday at Jailhouse near Sonora, CA. Over 200 tons of gravel was laid for a new parking area and road, new fences and gates were made and the access trail was improved.
As climbing becomes more and more popular, commercials and advertisements are starting to depict climbers. Often the footage can be pretty wild.
Sacramento climber Alex Honnold and former Ironworks staff member Katie Brown made this Citibank commercial, filming over a few days in Moab Utah. The spot used a paid voice over actor. Citibank has been airing this commercial during prime time hours on a number of channels.