Recently, long time Touchstone Member Lisa Feather Knee climbed her first 5.12a at the Berkeley Ironworks lead cave. Knee, who hails from Santa Fe, New Mexico, works as an artist painting large colorful oils and making serigraphs with acrylic paint. The Touchstone blog got a hold of the rock crushing artist shortly after he send. Knee began climbing 12 years ago when a friend took her out to a local crag. “All was going well until the point when I realized I would have to let go and trust the rope to get me back on ground. That's when the screaming started. After that I was hooked.” Knee started a membership at Mission Cliffs shortly afterwards.
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Nothing tastes as good as sending feels. If Kate Moss was a climber, I’m sure that would be her mantra. Many sport climbers follow this mantra living off a diet of brocoli crowns and Diet Coke while many hard core aid climbers live off of a six pack of King Cobra and potato chips. So what’s the best diet for a climber? Fortunately, it’s neither starving yourself nor non-stop gorging. Proper climbing nutrition starts with eating a balanced and appropriate diet with a focus on healthy nutrition. A basic climbing diet should consistent of plenty of fresh vegetables, lean proteins, whole grains, healthy fats, and unprocessed foods, plus a limited amount of refined sugar and unhealthy fats. The most important part of a solid climbing diet is to be knowledgeable about what you’re putting into your body.
There's an oft told climbing story that Tony Yaniro won a City of Rocks climbing competition in 1989 by not climbing the entire route. The rules stated that in order to win, the anchors needed to be clipped. Legend has it that Yaniro rodeo clipped the anchor from a stance below the crux. WIN!
What happens if you don't have a stick clip and don't feel safe doing the moves to the bolt? Well, if it ain't your first rodeo, you know how to lasso that clip. A great advanced sport climbing trick to learn is the rodeo clip. Rodeo clipping involves swinging a bight of rope into a prehung draw over head allowing for a toprope. The technique is simple in theory but much harder in practice. Head to the gym when it's quiet and try it.
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If you've been in the gym lately, you've probably seen their yellow shirts. A number of Cal students have started a climbing team.The California Climbing Team at Berkeley (CalClimb) was started at the beginning of Fall 2011. The team, which had 40 members last semester, has grown to over 100 members. The team was formed with the intent of forming a competitive climbing team to participate in the CCS (Collegiate Climbing Series) and introduce students to the sport.
The team meets Tuesdays and Thursday at Berkeley Ironworks with Casey Zak and than Tuesdays and Fridays with Tom Ogasawara. The team has a group meering on Wednesday nights from 6:30 - 7:30 at La Vals/La Burrita on the north side of Cal. The meetings involve trip planning, social events, and too discuss work shops through out the semester. Team officers hold clinics on technique, training, lead climbing, belaying and more.
The team has had numerous trips and has made it to the latest Touchstone Rope comp, Castle Rock, the Gold Wall, Yosemite, Joshua Tree, a ton of other great comps and a number of other classic outdoor climbing areas.
Any student, employee, staff, or alumni can join the team but only registered students can compete in the CCS puyt on by the USA Climbing. The team hopes to earn a National titile in the CCS in the next few years
For more information check out the climbing team web page or find them on Facebook
The Salathe Headwall on El Capitan, the North Six Shorter in Indian Creek, and Dog Leg in Joshua Tree are all beautiful routes that require just one look before you get a desperate desire to climb them. Cracks are by far the most aesthetic lines in climbingCrack climbing is beautiful but it also hurts. Anyone who has crack climbed has gobied their hands. The small abrasions on the back of your hands or fingers stem from the sharpness of the rock and systematic wear from jamming.
Summer is just a few months away. Warm weather, good climbing, and no more raining will be here sooner than you think. One of the best places to climb during the summer months is in Canada's Squamish in British Columbia. The cool forest keeps the boulders nice and shady for all the sloping heel hooks.
Last August, Courtney Miyamato, Will Wollcott, Colin Trenter, Jennifer Szeto, Kim Groebner, James Lucas, and other bay area climbers headed to the amazing granite boulders to check out some of North America's best boulder problems. Miyamato put together a great video of all the climbers sending some rad problems. Check out the great footage. Get ready for the summer bouldering season and get pysched!
Past blog entries can be found at http://touchstoneclimbing.blogspot.com/