"I climbed it the first time with Mark Vogel and "Dirtbag John" Aliri. Probably in the early 1990's. It was maybe my 4th or 5th wall," said Medford. "I did it again roped solo probably in the mid 90's. My regular partner Tom McQueen and I planned to climb it, but the week we were going to do it he left the valley for the weekend to go see his girlfriend. I was so mad I just soloed it. I did it in a day with my partner Bob Porter sometime in the early 2000's. It is probably typically done in a day now but I'm a very slow climber so at the time it felt like a challenge to tackle it in a day."
"It is so steep even the first 2 bolt ladder pitches are fun," noted Medford. "Then #5 is a steep traverse, #6 traverses back the other way. If you're doing a 2 day ascent you fix to the top of #6 and rappel back to the Ahwanee ledge to spend the night, but it is so steep that you need to have trailed a rope that is fixed back at the Ahwanee to pull yourself in or else you will just dangle out in space. The top-out is cool too: you traverse left and suddenly there is a dead flat ledge that you step onto and you're done. It's kind of abrupt."
"Rope soloing is VERY fun," said Medford of his rope solo ascent. "It is 2-3 times the work of climbing it in a team, but finding that you can climb alone and get yourself out of any bad situations is very confidence inspiring. Plus whether you succeed or fail is entirely up to you."
When asked why it was his favorite climb, Medford responded, "I guess it must be good because I keep going back."