Even with hundreds of crushers going in and out of Dogpatch Boulders, Nilo and Lars are easily noticed. “In a gym dominated by people in the 20-40 age range, everyone knows them as the kids who will climb with anyone, not just other kids," said Dogpatch manager Justin Alarcon. We took a moment to find out more about these young climbers who are already a huge part of the Dogpatch climbing community.
Fall has fallen, and it's time to start the bouldering season out right! We'll be kicking off a brand new, never before seen 'Bowldering League,' at Dogpatch Boulders. 2 parts fun, 1 part competition, .5 parts fame and .5 parts glory, this competition will run for 10 weeks this fall. Read on to find out more about this exciting new format and find out how to sign up. Here’s what you need to know to get started.
1) Collect a team of four boulderers and one alternate (for weeks when someone can’t make it). All climbing levels are welcome. If you climb V3 and your buddy climbs V10 - great! You can totally be on the same team. The way we score everything will make it fair no matter how hard you climb (we’ll explain below).
2) Come to the front desk and ask for a Dogpatch Bowldering League Registration Form. Registrants will need to be Touchstone Gym Members or 10 Pass Holders; otherwise, they must purchase a day pass for each visit. There will be a $50 registration fee for each team. That means each of your buddies have to fork over a whole $10-$12 each to get your team started! All teams must be registered by September 27th.
3) Once registered, make sure to “Like” our Dogpatch Boulders Facebook Page. We will post weekly updates, share Bowldering League Problems, and announce special weekly SUPER SPECIAL BOWLDERING CHALLENGES that can earn your team extra points.
4) Every other week, as marked on our league calendar, will be a Bowldering League competition. Teams will be matched up against each other with the highest scoring team of the week earning one for the win column. During the Bi-Week, we will set new problems and our staff will calculate your team’s scores and email them to your team captains.
5) Beginning on Monday of a League competition week, scorecards will be available at the front desk.. Your team will only be allowed one day to fill out the scorecard, but it can be any day within the competition week that your team chooses. All team members must be present to receive a scorecard. There are no do-overs, if your team does not turn in its scorecard they will receive 0 points that week.
6) On competition days, teams will be responsible for keeping track of what problems they have climbed and handle their own scorecards. Be sure to note whether the ascents were flashes or redpoints following the instruction on the scorecard. We will be using the honor system, so please be honest when you mark down your sends. Cheaters will be run out onto the street and forced to do Crossfit. Don’t forget to turn in your scorecard at the end of the night so we can tally up your points!
8) After 5 competition weeks we will host a final Dogpatch Bowldering League World Championship Tournament of Champions! (DBLWCTC) On December 7th, teams with the best win/loss records will be pitted against each other in a bracket-style elimination competition. The two best teams at the end of the day will compete for the GRAND PRIZE and the Title “Dogpatch Bouldering League Champions of the Universe!”
Registration is open from September 1st to September 27th!
Scoring in the bouldering league will be based on a handicap system. Handicapping will allow teams of noobs to compete alongside teams composed of v12 mega-crushers. Our system rewards personal achievement while prioritizing fun and camaraderie.
Handicapping is actually fairly simple. When a competitor registers they will be asked what their regular climbing level is (what V-grade do you climb). We want to know what the hardest grade you regularly climb is, that’s it. You can usually get up at least one v6 per visit? Great, you’re a v6 handicap. Usually you climb v3, but once every couple of weeks you get a v4? You’re a v3 handicap. You can climb v8 once a week or so, but a year and a half ago you climbed v10? Guess what, you’re a v8 handicap. If you have any trouble deciding on your handicap, just ask a staff person and they can help you out.
Handicaps can change throughout the competition; so don’t get too hung up on them. If you have a breakthrough and start regularly climbing a grade harder than before, our scorekeepers will adjust your handicap. Likewise, if you go through a rough patch when you can’t seem to get up the same problems you used to, we’ll adjust that as well.
Each competition week the scorecard will have 20 Bowldering League sanctioned problems from v0-v10+. The goal as an individual is to try and flash or redpoint problems at or above your handicap to garner the most points. Flashing means a problem is climbed on the first attempt. A redpoint in this competition means a climb has been completed after the first attempt. For a more complete explanation of the term redpoint please visit Wikipedia.
A competitor will receive full points for a problem redpointed at the level of their handicap. Flashing a problem earns you half a point extra. Climbing a problem below your handicap costs you a point, while climbing above your handicap get’s you an extra point (remember handicaps will be adjusted and sandbaggers will be punished severely.)
For the purposes of this competition a ‘flash’ will be considered the first attempt of a problem on the competition day. Many of the competition boulder problems will be chosen from the many problems already on our walls so it is very likely that competitors, prior to competition week, will have tried the boulder problems. So for competition purposes a competitor may very well flash a climb they had done on a previous visit, this is well within the rules.
The top three scores from each competitor on a team will be added together to get the team score. If your team score is higher than your opposition’s score your team earns the win that week. At the end of league play the teams with the best win-loss records will have the highest seeding in the Dogpatch Bowldering League World Championship Tournament of Champions! (DBLWCTC)
On May 24th, 45 students from San Francisco International High School, a public school for recent immigrants, headed over to Dogpatch Boulders to check out the new gym. The students, who are adjusting to a new life in the United States, had never been climbing before! We caught up with them to see what they thought of climbing.
TBS8 at Dogpatch Boulders is just days away! The ambassadors of psych here at Touchstone Headquarters have put together a handy check list to ensure that you are prepared for all the fun and frivolities. Follow these easy steps and you'll be ready to roll from the moment you walk in!
#1. Know what TBS8 is.
Over 8 years ago, when some of the Zero Gravity crushers were still in diapers, Touchstone Climbing started a bouldering competition. The comp series toured each of our gyms, bringing new problems, food, and fun to each location. This gave us a chance to throw our members a huge party while encouraging them to journey to surrounding gyms and meet their counterparts. The tradition has continued, and with 8 gyms in the Touchstone Dynasty, TBS8 has been in full swing for the last 7 months.
Our comp series are open to climbers of all levels, and competitors can register in the beginner, intermediate, or advanced categories. The event will run from 12pm-5pm on Saturday, May 4th and you are can climb and turn in score cards anytime through the event. TBS8 is FREE to members and only $10 for guests. Winners in the advanced categories will go on to compete in finals at 6pm.
#2. Print out a Waiver!
You already signed a waiver, but competitions are special and we'd like another one. Touchstone Climbing Waiver. <--- Print this up and proceed to step 3.
#3. Find your Touchstone Competition ID number.
We are pretty legit when it comes to competitions. Each competitor has a unique 3 letter code for registration and scoring. Knowing your code ahead of time will help conserve your energy for all the climbing you are about to do. You need the 3 letter code to get a score card. TBS8 Registration It will look a little something like what you see below. If this is your FIRST competition in over a year, register for the comp to find your code. If you have been to a comp in the past year, look up your code.
After you have your three letter code, write it atop your waiver. It should look a little something like this:
#4. Get psyched. This is gonna be huge. See you Saturday!
Want to break through a plateau? Want to improve your footwork or general technique? World class boulderers, Lisa Rands and Wills Young will be heading to Dogpatch to provide specific instruction on how to improve your climbing.
For over 20 years Lisa Rands has climbed across the world from Alpine spires in Argentina’s Patagonia to first ascents in the boulders of South Africa’s Rocklands. In 2002, Lisa was the first American to win a World Cup Bouldering Competition, and was ranked world number one in competitive bouldering the same year. She went on to break ground for women with ultra-bold ascents of “E8” gritstone test-pieces in England and super-highballs in Bishop, California.
One of the best technical climbers in the world, Wills Young has made an enormous impact on the US climbing scene. Wills wrote the book on bouldering in Bishop- literally. Beyond climbing thousands of problems in the Bishop area for his guidebook, Wills has climbed across the globe, spending significant time in Rocklands South Africa, in the south east US, and of course in Bishop.
In the video below, Wills shows his impeccable technigue as he casually hikes professional climbers Chris Sharma and Tony Lamiche's project.
The clinics will be held on Sunday April 28th from 6-7:30pm and Tuesday April 30th from 5-6:30pm. To ensure personal attention classes are limited to 14 climbers per class. The clinics are $40 for members and $50 for non-members. This is an amazing opportunity to learn from a pair of highly accomplished climbers and instructors.
The cold weather, perfect conditions and slightly longer days means bouldering season has struck again. There's a ton of new problems to try and with the addition of Touchstone's latest gym, Climbing ground up, having to onsight sections of high boulder problems, provides one of the best challenges in places like Dogpatch, Yosemite and Bishop. Check out these videos of Berkeley climber Ingar Shu climbing high and well off the ground.
The grand opening of Dogpatch is fast approaching and local climbers are getting psyched. The gym has had a few open house events. During a few random weekdays, members grabbed the holds on the amazing new walls. Dogpatch also saw visits by some local professional climbers.
Touchstone athlete and San Francisco native, Ethan Pringle stopped by Dogpatch already. Pringle set a new problem on the arch once and then returned to climb at the new gym. “There were a ton of brand new holds so I made the whole thing orange.” Setting in the gym remained a difficult task due to the overhanging nature. “I had to move the ladder at least 20 times so that I could reach different parts of the roof and use two different ladders of different heights.”
The walls at Dogpatch Boulders in San Francisco are nearing completion. In the past week, Walltopia workers have been installing the panels, followed closely by the Touchstone setting crew. The setters have established hundreds of problems ranging from VB to V11 on the terrain of slabs, vertical walls, and steep roofs. Dogpatch manager Justin Alarcon, setters Cole Zuelke of Fresno, Jeremy Ho of Berkeley Ironworks, and Anthony Vicino of Ironworks talked about the setting happening at the new gym.
For Justin Alarcon this fall has been a very good season. On October 27th, he married his long time love Becky Trafecanty. Then on October 29th, the Giants swept the world series. A week later, he went to Kalymnos, Greece for a honeymoon sport climbing trip. And upon his return, Touchstone announced that Alarcon had been selected as the Manager of Dogpatch Boulders, our newest gym.
“Should I buy a lottery ticket before the year is over!?” Alarcon joked in an interview with the Touchstone blog.