Litter at the Crag

The fall weather arrived. Perfect cool days with beautiful leaves on the ground make for great climbing days and amazing experiences. An important part of being a climber is being a steward of places we get to climb. The gorgeous crags can be overrun with litter and debris if we neglect to take care of them. The Access Fund made a funny little video about litter. Next time you head to Indian Rock, Yosemite, or Castle Rock make sure to pick up after yourself. Grab those little pieces of tape, the bar wrappers, and any extra trash. Keep climbing areas beautiful.

The Gimp Monkeys on El Cap

Earlier this year, three men climbed the Zodiac on El Capitan. This striking aid line climbs through one of the steepest parts of Yosemite's quintessential granite monolith. While this aid climb sees a number of ascents through out the season, the Gimp Monkey's ascent is a little different as all three of the men are amputees. They made an inspiring video about their ascent.

Oakdale Climber's Festival

This weekend, from October 26th to the 28th, Oakdale is having its first climber's festival.  The festivites, which will be held at the Oakdale Community Center at 110 South 2nd Ave in Oakdale, promise to be a great opportunity to learn about some of the vibrant California climbing history.

On Friday night, beginning at 7:30 p.m., there will be a discussion of John Salathe.  Allen Steck will be talking about his first ascent experience on the Sentinel with Salathe, Ken Yaeger will talk about Salathe's experience in Camp 4,  and Doug Robinson will address Salathe's commitment to boldness and style. 

 

Royal Robbins_by_Tom_Frost

Read more: Oakdale Climber's Festival

Tick Marks

Climbing outside is a ton of fun. The wind, the fresh air, the entire atmosphere is part of what makes climbing enjoyable. It's important to protect the environment that climbing is in. Part of being a good steward at our crags is not using excessive tick marks, lines to show where holds are. If you do decide to use a tick mark on a route or boulder problem be responsible and brush them off after you are done for the day. The Access Fund made a great little video of a climber getting a little too zealous with his ticks.

 

24HHH with Caitlin Davies

Climbing all day can be difficult.  Climbing for 24 hours is really hard.  In the last few days of September, Touchstone members Caitlin Davies and Lauren Reising headed to 24 Hours of Horshoe Hell in Arkansas.  The premise for 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell is leading a route clean for points, and doing that in succession for 24 hours straight.  

For Caitlin, a climber of two years, the 24HHH was a good opportunity to expand her climbing skills.  "I wanted to do 24HHH because I'm kind of a pansy leader, honestly... lol. An event that focuses so much on mental control really targeted my weak spot... so I wanted to face it and kind of embrace that fear, I guess? I'll tell you what, by the end of the 24 hours I didn't even care when I was above a bolt. It was a satisfying feeling."

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Caitlin on left and Lauren on right

Read more: 24HHH with Caitlin Davies

Fixed Gear at Crags

Heading to sport crags where many of the draws are fixed or out to Yosemite where there are many old anchors means knowing a bit about the dangers of insitu gear, especially of worn fixed biners.

On September 22, Mario Luginbühl and a friend went climbing at Magletsch, in the St.Gallen canton, Switzerland. Luginbühl was trying to work out a sequence and took a controlled fall. This proved fatal as the fixed quickdraw had been worn sharp through extensive use and cut the rope. Luginbühl fell 85 feet to his death. A similar instance happened a few years ago in the Red River Gorge when a climber cut their rope on the second bolt of a popular climb.

CRW 6017

Read more: Fixed Gear at Crags

More Yosemite Bouldering

Yosemite season is in full swing. The fall temps are here. The conditions are getting perfect for the bouldering on some of the world's best granite boulders. Kyle O'Meara, a Washington transplant who has been crushing California climbing, made this cool video of a couple of Yosemite classics that he climbed this spring.


Get amped for Yosemite climbing this fall!

 

Geological Map of El Capitan

Yosemite National Park geologist, Greg Stock created an amazing view of El Capitan recently using a new type of mapping. "The movie was produced from terrestrial laser scanning (LiDAR) data collected from El Cap Meadow, with many millions of individually georeferenced points. The grayscale values relate to the reflectivity of the rock, which is why the North America diorite appears so dark relative to the surrounding granite.

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Read more: Geological Map of El Capitan

Climbing in The Olympics

Imagine competing with the best climbers on a world class climbing wall.   The Touchstone rope series comps, which are in their sixth year, are a demonstration of what climbing could be like in the upcoming Olympics.  The comps are also an important part in climbing's move towards global recognition. 

MissionCliffscomp

Read more: Climbing in The Olympics

How To Clip A Rope

One of the most important parts of lead climbing is clipping the rope correctly. While this seems simple and straight forward, it is easy to back clip, z-clip, and make mistakes that could jeopardize the climbers safety. In this video, Chris Linder shows the proper way to clip a rope. While Linder's video shows the details in a sport climbing aspect, the same rules apply when traditional climbing.

Past blog entries can be found at  http://touchstoneclimbing.blogspot.com/

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