There's an oft told climbing story that Tony Yaniro won a City of Rocks climbing competition in 1989 by not climbing the entire route. The rules stated that in order to win, the anchors needed to be clipped. Legend has it that Yaniro rodeo clipped the anchor from a stance below the crux. WIN!
What happens if you don't have a stick clip and don't feel safe doing the moves to the bolt? Well, if it ain't your first rodeo, you know how to lasso that clip. A great advanced sport climbing trick to learn is the rodeo clip. Rodeo clipping involves swinging a bight of rope into a prehung draw over head allowing for a toprope. The technique is simple in theory but much harder in practice. Head to the gym when it's quiet and try it.
Here’s the method.
* 1. Form a bight in the lead rope a few inches longer than your outstretched arm. Position yourself facing the rock, below the first draw or if you're hanging on lead, in a solid swinging position. The lower biner must be hanging free from the rock.
* 2. There's two ways to swing and hit the draw. The granny overswing involves looping the rope over your head and tossing the loop at the biner. The other method involves taking a bight between your index and pink fingers and swinging the bight airplane propeller style. Spin the rope parallel to the rock and clockwise if the biner gate is facing left and counter clockwise if the biner is facing right. Gradually add rope to make increasingly larger circles, zeroing in on the biner’s gate.
* 3. The next step involves hitting the biner. It's easier said than done. Make sure that you're not back clipped. If you are and the process took you more than 5 minutes to perform, pull the rope through until you can tie in on the other side of the rope.
Head to your nearest Touchstone gym and try this amazing technique! It gets you automatic cool points if you do it first try!
Tags: rodeo clipping, stick clipping
Past blog entries can be found at http://touchstoneclimbing.blogspot.com/