By Narinda Heng
So. You’ve made a tiny human! Does this mean no more climbing gym time? No!
You may have noticed that door between the drinking fountains and the men’s locker room with the “Childcare” sign above it. Here’s what’s inside:
Berkeley Ironworks offers childcare for children age 6 months to 6 years four days a week:
Tuesdays & Thursdays 4:00pm - 8:00pm
Saturdays 10:00am - 1:00pm
Sundays 2:00pm - 5:00pm
The pricing is pretty incredible at $7.50/hour for members and $10.00/hour for non-members.
(You’ll still be on diaper & potty duty, though, so keep an ear perked for the intercom in case those needs arise.)
I’ve been one of the childcare staff since August 2013, and I wanted to offer some hints and tricks for parents leaving their babes for the first time:
1. You may be called back to the childcare room for soothing. The first visit or two might be a little rough for those kiddos under three. They get worried. They think you’re never coming back. They start crying. Desperately. We’ll try to soothe them with toys and books and videos, but if that doesn’t work, we’ll ask the front desk to call for you over the intercom. It’ll happen less and less with each visit!
2. Sometimes it’s so hard to say goodbye that it’s better not to. Some babes mainly have trouble with the letting go part. It helps to let the childcare person know what your child is excited about playing with, so that they can distract them as you quietly leave the room to go climb your project, take a yoga class, or run a few miles on BIW’s super-fancy new treadmills.
3. The more the merrier! We can have up to six children in the childcare room at a time, and the babes tend to do better when they have other kids to play with. Play/belay dates are highly recommended. Are you a part of a pair of parents taking turns watching the little ones? Are your toddlers good pals? Set them on a play date in the childcare room so you can all get your climb on. Everybody’s happy.
4. There’s no place like home, but the toys don’t have to stay there. We have plenty of different toys for varying ages, but it’s great for them to have more familiar happiness- making things to play with, or a favorite book to read. Bring a few along. Here some creative tikes integrated their set of Squinkie toys with our map play rug:
The four year old’s had a grand ol’ time.
Weekday evenings can get a little wild at the gym. You can pay ahead for childcare time so you can just scan your member card and then come straight to the childcare room, where you can sign off the amount of time (in 1/2 hour blocks) that you’d like to use. Precious minutes saved! And it lets BIW know that there are folks interested in the childcare service, so we can keep it going for the parents yet to come.
These are some things I’ve noticed since I joined the childcare team. You know your child better than I do, of course! You never know whether this will be a good fit unless you try, right? What’s the harm? You wouldn’t want to leave us to sit alone polishing the toys all shift long, would you?
For many, climbing is a passing hobby. For others it can offer a huge support system. At MetalMark in Fresno, climbing is helping to change the lives of local students and keep them in school.
Twice a week, a group of inner-city high school students climbs at MetalMark. Will Haskins, a high school Cross Country coach and teacher with McLane High School, first proposed the Project Reach climbing club in 2011 to the Fresno Unified School District. “McLane High School is an inner city high school where 25% of the student population is in the foster care system and holds the highest density of poverty in the nation”, stated Haskins. “McLane’s graduation and student retention numbers are atrocious.” Haskins added that, “participation in after-school programs and athletics is a determining factor in these students staying in school.” Haskins hoped that a climbing program would help students graduate.
Haskins confronted a number of difficulties when starting the club. After a six month grant approval process from the school district, Haskins faced the hurdle of funding the project. To achieve this goal, Touchstone Climbing partnered with Project Reach and offered a discount on purchasing equipment for the students. Other members of the climbing community supported the project as well. Haskins posted on various climbing websites looking for shoe and chalk bag donations and climbers flooded Project Reach with gear, and within months gear was arriving at MetalMark from all across California.
“Many of these students are from all ethnic backgrounds, all grade levels, all athletic abilities, and many of them are feeling hope and success for the first time in their lives,” said Haskins. A student approached Haskins and said, “Rock climbing is the first thing I’ve ever been excited about.” Haskins knew he was on to something big after more students approached him. “This is my first year rock climbing, and it has really changed me. I have learned that even though a route is really hard, I shouldn't give up,” said Project Reach student Alexis. “When life gets hard, don't give up. MetalMark is a positive place to hang out, and the rock climbing staff inspires me.”
“I had broken my arm, and rock climbing helped me recover. Also at that time I was having problems at home and it helped my life feel better,” said Tshaaj, a Project Reach student. “Not only did it help me physically, it also helped me mentally. I feel like rock climbing has helped me a lot.”
Haskins feels that along with the strong relationships he is building with his students, the climbing club also resulted in students staying in school, passing classes, building friendships with other climbers, and essentially building a positive community in which they feel safe.
Haskins and the other teachers at McLane High are excited about the rock climbing club. When they see a student needing extra help, not doing well in school, or how would benefit from an extracurricular activity, they know they can send them to Project Reach.
in lieu of a boring FAQ page... our favorite home town hero/pro climber/ MH model Ethan Pringle and coach/blogger/crusher Georgie Abel stopped by Dogpatch Boulders to help spread the word about proper gym etiquette. "I can always tell when it's someones first time in the gym," said Dogpatch Boulders manager Justin Alarcon. "And it's not their climbing that gives them away. It's not knowing how to fall or to see where a route is going before they jump on!"
Climbing is inherently dangerous. But this video will give you tips and tricks on everything from falling safely on our lovely Flashed Climbing flooring, to spotting in the gym. If you're new to bouldering or just want to be a more educated climber, this is a must see!
This video was shot and edited by the modern day Jean-Luc Godard, Joe Kinder, and finished off with the lyrical stylings of Michael P Hershburger. Thanks everyone! Happy climbing!
In an indoor rock climbing environment, one thing's for sure: the routes you climb are our product.
Sounds stupid and maybe overly philosophical, but the very talented and hard working Touchstone Routesetters literally create a commodity that is so unique and high quality that people pay a monthly membership or for day passes just to experience it. If you've ever ventured outside of the "bubble" of Touchstone setting, you'll always come back with a holy-moly-I-didn't-know-I-had-it-so-good kinda feeling. Not to toot the Touchstone horn, but these dudes set amazing climbs 40 hours a week, at nine gyms across the state (that's not even touching on the hard work that goes into competitions).
But inevitably, you'll still hear members say something like, 'I could do that.' Maybe that's true, but most of the time it's without knowing how much is actually included in the process.
Maybe what people mean to say is, 'I really, really, really WANT to do that.'
Ok. So now we have people saying they 'could' and 'want' to route set that are not actually route setters themselves. After hearing over and over, we created the Member Setting Clinic that took place at Berkeley Ironworks on February 21st.
When creating the clinic, we had a few goals in mind. Obviously, we wanted the participants to do what they came to do: route set. We also wanted to make sure our beloved members would get a chance to interact with the Touchstone Routesetters in ways they don't normally get to. Right now it's pretty easy for any of the desk staff at our gyms to create a relationship with the members and vice versa, but the setters don't always have that opportunity and although all of us have a unique relationship with the way they set, we rarely get to know the person behind the wrench.
Enough of the sappy stuff, aren't you here to find out what happened in the clinic?!
We provided 4 hours for the clinic in total because we knew that the participants have little to no setting experience and putting up just one route might take longer than expected. We also factored in forerunning (trying out the problems and making necessary changes) and clean-up. It was decided that the Campus Board Wall to the far left of BIW's bouldering area would be the best terrain for the event because of the height, simplicity, and low impact to the rest of the gym. You have to remember, this was an experiment. If it went terribly wrong and EVERYBODY set bad problems, people would be bummed.
The clinic began with a freshly stripped bouldering wall and holds spread out all over the ground. Each of the 11 participants were handed a Route Setting Guidelines sheet and listened to Ben Polanco (Flea) and Anthony Vicino (AV) give an impressively informative rundown on what makes a route good based on their own experiences as long time wrench turners.
The next step was claiming valuable real estate on the wall and selecting the holds necessary for the boulder problem.
Ben observed a theme, "Apparently, everybody wants to set tweaky gastons."
Anthony described the biggest, but most useful challenge was helping people realize their intention. "It's easy to get tunnel vision when setting and think that there'll only be 'your' way to climb the problem. More often than not, it was fairly easy to see a simpler way of doing a sequence than the setter had wanted for the climber. Nobody likes to see people botch their sequences. The other constant struggle was getting people to think about comfort. You think your problem is 'amazing', but you want to make people WANT to climb it. No tweaky stuff!"
Thankfully the criticism was taken well across the board and remained a positive experience with both sides. Long time Touchstone member, Josh Eads, said "This is the most fun I've had in FOREVER!" Both Anthony and Ben felt that the problems set were 'way cooler than we expected' and that the clinic was generally a very good experience.
Check out the problems from your peers next time you're in BIW on the Campus Board Wall to the far right of the bouldering area and stay tuned for this clinic to appear a gym near YOU!
In case you missed the announcement amidst all the weekend fun, we're happy to share our hopes to bring a world class indoor climbing gym to Pasadena, California in 2015.
LA Boulders officially opened to the public in January, 2013. "We always knew this wouldn't be our only Southern California location," said Touchstone General manager Markham Connolly. "Having several gyms in LA, just like we have in the Bay Area, allows people to use more than one gym with one membership. Members love that they can rope climb in Berkeley, take yoga in Oakland, and boulder in San Francisco. It's exciting to be thinking about brining that to LA."
"I'm psyched," said Remi Moehring, who moved to Los Angeles from San Francisco to manage LA Boulders. "Seeing people walk into the LA.B and be blow away by the walls and the community is just the beginning. Just wait till the LA climbing community has a Touchstone rope gym too!"
While the project is still in the preliminary stages, the gym will include rope climbing, bouldering, and more. "The reception we've received from the LA climbing community has been amazing," said Touchstone Climbing owner Mark Melvin. "We're very excited to take what's worked from our existing locations and create something truly spectacular in Pasadena."
Stay tuned for more information!
Resting can be one of the most difficult parts of rock climbing. When on a trip, there’s always a need to take a day or two off to let your muscles rest and recover. For obsessive climbers, finding ways to keep yourself busy during rest days can be brutal. Below are a few tips.
Hayden Kennedy reads during a rest day in the desert
Clean Up Your Act
Many climbing areas, like Squamish, Moab, and Mesquite, have recreation areas where you can purchase a shower, sit in a sauna, or swim in a pool. Besides rec area, showers are often available at local gyms or hostels. There’s hot springs around Bishop and Mickey’s Beach as well as vapor caves outside of Rifle. Find the local swimming holes if you want to save a few dollars but still smell rustic. Bathing helps heal the inevitable small abrasions that occur while at the crag or in the boulders. If you’ve been climbing long enough to take a rest day, then you probably have some dirty clothes. Finding a Laundromat with Wi-Fi, laundry detergent, and all of the dirty socks in your car can take upwards of eight hours. Beyond the laundry, clean out your car, organize your tent and camping area. Sort out your rack, collect your draws, and cut the ends of your rope if needed. Buy groceries, chalk, and climbing tape.
When you woke up, you probably made a slow breakfast, then hit the coffee shop or library. The rest day Internet sessions can last anywhere from two to fifteen hours. Be prepared to find the ends of the information superhighway. Update your Facebook status with a list of things you’ve climbed. Upload pictures. Find out who’s heading to the crag in the next few days. Ask your friends if they’ve climbed the routes you’ve been trying or if anyone has beta on a potential climb. Facebook can be an excellent resource for gathering beta and arranging partners. Make sure to contact your mom and tell her you love her. You never know when you might sprain your ankle, break a bone, and have to move back home. Plus, moms love to send care packages. Five-day-old brownies sent to general delivery in Leavenworth Washington still taste good.
Brittany Griffith does some stretching and band work out to rehabilitate her shoulder during a rest day in Indian Creek
Plan for the next climb
Take advantage of your day off by researching what you’ll do on your next climbing day. Devouring the guidebook for beta, finding the routes or problems you want to climb, and putting a rack together for tomorrow helps you climb more efficiently the next day. Finding partners for the next day and then prepping for the climbing can take a significant amount of time especially for longer routes. Make a tick list of the routes you want to climb while you are on your trip and schedule the days that you want to climb them. Account a few days for rain and bad weather. Prepare to make yourself as efficient as possible for the next day of climbing.
Alex Honnold takes an active rest day by hiking up the top of the Sentinel in Yosemite
Take An Active Rest Day
Heading out for a hike or a run can be a great way to recover. While some climbers abhor any exercise that isn’t directly related to climbing, getting a bit of physical activity can provide an opportunity to find new boulder problems, figure out approaches to long routes and provide a bit of fitness. Use the run or hike as an opportunity to stretch sore muscles. Heading to the boulders to brush holds, or to the crag to look at routes, can provide an excellent diversion for a few hours. Scoping out the descent route can also keep you from having an enormous epic.
Check Facebook Again
Something must have changed in the past five minutes to warrant you checking. Your fifth grade elementary school teacher probably updated their status. If Facebook offers little entertainment, read through past Touchstone blog posts, check Climbing.com for the latest news, or fixate on your 8a.nu card. All of these websites offer great training posts on how to improve your climbing. Purchase new climbing shoes from one of the dozen of online climbing sites. While you’re on the Internet, look for a job. If you’re on the road long enough to take a rest day and not have to work, then you need a job.
Document Your Travels
One of the best parts of taking rest days is the amount of free time you have. Many climbers take the day to invest in their hobbies. Drawing, reading about, and taking photos of the area can be rest day activities. One of the best parts of climbing is the different areas of the world it takes to. Hueco offers petroglyph tours. Arches National Park sits just outside of Indian Creek. Dinosaur museums litter the towns around Ten Sleep Wyoming. Yosemite National park offers a ton of museums about glaciers and Native American history. Every climbing area has a unique culture and documenting it offers a great rest day activity.
Nothing beats a good rest day. Have fun, prepare for your next day of climbing, and relax. One of the best parts of being on a climbing trip is being able to sit back and enjoy it.
While traveling around North America climbing for the past thirteen years, I’ve hit a few speed bumps. Injuries, epics, and car troubles have hindered my climbing but the biggest hurdle I’ve faced is finding climbing partners. From bouldering in Hueco to climbing big wall routes in Yosemite, the need for climbing partners changes and who I’m willing to climb with varies greatly. Last minute partner bails or vacation time but no one to climb with should never stop you from going to the crag. Line up lots of people to climb with through a few of these tips.
A good spot will guarantee you have a partner
Get Involved in the Community
Meeting solid climbing partners involves putting yourself out there. Internet forums, bulletin boards at climbing areas, and message boards provide a way to troll for partners but finding a solid long term partner involves a little more personal effort. Beyond calling for a new partner over the climbing gym speakers, the Touchstone climbing competitions, Access Fund cleanups, slideshows, and events like the Yosemite Facelift offer perfect venues to meet and greet other climbers. The climbing gyms offer partner meet-ups as well. Meet other climbers and become a fixture in the climbing scene. While a boulderer may not want to climb El Capitan with you, they may know someone who will. Attending climbing events will facilitate introductions to new partners. Often, friends of other climbing partners make for good climbing companions.
Provide a Perfect Catch
A good climbing partner offers a solid belay or spot. Nothing beats a partner looking out for your safety. While climbing a sport route at Utah’s Wailing Wall, I broke a hold on a run out section of climbing. The rope went behind my leg and I rocketed towards the slab below. Joe Kinder caught my unexpected and brutal fall perfectly, preventing me from slamming my head into the rock. There’s little doubt that I’ll climb with Joe again. Having excellent belaying skill or providing an attentive spot go a long way with developing solid partnerships. Beyond being a solid belayer, know how to manage the rope, how to clean pro, and how to arrange pads well will guarantee you a partner. Work on your spotting, belaying, and trad climbing skills and any potential partner will be psyched.
Long term friendships can develop out of providing a good catch
When climbing with a new partner, be honest with your abilities. Hiking all the way out to the base of a long trad route and then learning your partner has never crack climbed can turn a casual climb into a total epic. Honesty helps us find better matches and keeps us safe. Let your partner know you’re experience. Just because you love to toprope and hate climbing anything higher than three feet, doesn’t make you a bad partner. That can be many climbers’ dream partner. Also, never overestimate another climber’s abilities. A 5.14 sport rock jock may be able to crush at Jailhouse but unable to climb Yosemite’s Serenity Crack. Begin by climbing conservatively and testing the water. Learn what your partner is comfortable with leading, following, spotting, or bouldering. Establish a solid reporte with any new partner.
Show up on time. Never flake. Be pleasant to be around. While these ideas seem basic, a surprising number of socially inept climbers forget these basic human concepts. Being a nice reliable person goes a long ways. Buying a huge trad rack, having a nice crash pad, or always driving to the crag are certainly nice but these things can be bought. Having a great personality and being agreeable can’t be. Being the ideal partner will insure that anyone who climbs with you will want to climb with you again.
There’s times when everyone seems busy and unable to get to the crag. Head out anyway. A short trip to the boulders may yield a life long friendship. At the very least, climbing is always fun and going out will show potential partners your level of commitment.